Keeping Your Siberian Husky Cool --Brenda Hinkemeyer
Yeah, sunglasses and a leather jacket would do the
trick. But, in all seriousness, this
article is about helping your Siberian Husky deal
with the heat and sun: An appropriate
topic with summer just around the corner. So why
am I writing this article? Well, I know
what to do, even though I don't always practice what
I preach (to which anyone who has seen
my red dogs' coats can attest). As you may or may
not know, I am a native Minnesotan;
however, I lived in Phoenix, Arizona, for four years.
Ironically, this is where I got my start
with Siberian Huskies. It is CRITICAL in a warm
climate, like the Arizona desert, to keep
your Siberian cool. My original three dogs had to
survive record-breaking 122 degree temperatures
in July, when even the airport was closed. While
Minnesota summers are cold in comparison,
Siberians can still suffer and must stay cool. Note
that at the beginning I mentioned heat and sun,
not temperature and sun. Heat is the combination
of the temperature and humidity.
What Minnesota summers lack in temperature, they
make up for in humidity (although it DOES
get humid in Arizona in late July and August, contrary
to popular belief, we're still only talking
about 60% at the upper extreme).
The best piece of advice is to just use common sense.
If you are uncomfortable outside, your dog
is probably very uncomfortable. The primary reason,
of course, is that lovely Siberian coat.
Want to empathize? Just bundle up in your warmest
winter clothing sometime in the middle of
summer and see how you feel! As you probably already
know, dogs do not perspire. They cool
themselves by panting - losing their excess body
heat from their mouths. Think about the size of
the area absorbing heat vs. the size of the area
dispersing the heat, and you can begin to see what
a tough job it is! I cannot emphasize enough how
important it is to properly cool your dog.
In addition to skin problems, such as "hot spots",
your dog could get sunstroke and be permanently
brain damaged or die.
The most critical key to keeping
your dog cool is the availability
of fresh, clean water at all times. This cannot
be emphasized enough. It must be fresh water.
The buckets should be emptied and cleaned nightly.
This can sometimes be difficult depending
on your water supply (I have well water, so algae
can be a problem in the summer), but stainless
steel water buckets help this a great deal. It can
also be a challenge if your Siberians take turns
cooling their feet in the water bucket. This means
they now have fresh, muddy water to drink.
I would suggest providing a small wading pool with
a couple of inches of water available to the dogs.
Most Siberians love to play in water. Raising the
bucket off the ground slightly and clipping it to the
fence so that it cannot be spilled or tipped will
also help. Of course, if you can do it, I think the
ideal solution would be self-waterers, similar to
those used for livestock! (I personally think they
would find some way to make it stay on permanently
and overflow all over, though.) And when you
are hosing your kennels out, give the dogs a spray
or two. They'll enjoy it!
The next key to cooling your Siberian is shade.
I did not list it equally with the first, because, quite
frankly, you cannot FORCE your Siberian to lay in
the shade. This has been my particular problem.
If your dog is uncomfortable, he will seek shade.
So have lots of it available. There are numerous
ways to provide shade. I think the best solution
is trees all around the kennels. This is not easy to
implement once the dogs are in place. Siberians
like to eat trees. So many of us have to rely on tarps
or sunscreens. Covering the entire south wall as
well as the first few feet of the kennel is ideal.
Of course, you need to customize this to your particular
yard and its periods of sun. My kennel area
has nothing around it for miles (OK, slight exaggeration),
so there is ALWAYS a period during the
day when there is little or no shade. I try to shade
so that this time is early morning or evening, when
the sun is the least intense. Start shading your
dogs as soon as the threat of heavy snow (which would
ruin your tarps) is gone and the sun is higher in
the sky. You should probably shade from late
March to October, if possible. Make sure that you
poke holes in tarps (or any solid fabric), so that the
rain doesn't weigh down and ruin them. Believe me,
if the tarps dip low enough and the dog houses
are high enough, you will have Siberians running
around on tarps and jumping out of the kennels!
The surface that your dog lays on during the day
can also playa part in his comfort. Asphalt is out for many reasons
besides heat conduction. Concrete can also become warm. While
it is not as uncomfortable to the touch as asphalt, for example,
it reflects a lot of heat and will make your dog hotter. Your
dog should have a dog house or wooden pallet to lay on to keep him
off the concrete surface. The dogs are most comfortable with grass
or dirt to lay on. And I say dirt, because that's what the
yard will look like after they lay on it for awhile. My dogs
have their own little molded wells to lie in - they've dug into
the ground about 4 inches in a circular area that is
roughly the shape of their body curled up. They each have
one... or two... or three. [Actually, it's probably closer
to one for every day of the week.]
When I lived in Arizona, my dogs used to sit IN the tree in the
middle of the kennel. Let me explain. There was a large Palo Verde
tree around which I built my kennels. A Palo Verde tree is light green,
and starts branching about a foot off the ground. It has teeny, tiny leaves
on very sharp, pointy branches. While it's shading ability
is not even close to a large oak, for example, the temperature
will drop about 20 degrees around it. This helps
- a lot! Anyway, they are also very cool to the touch. So
the dogs would lay on the lower branches of the tree in the
worst heat of the day.
And, of course, the dogs themselves help keep cool
in the summertime, by shedding all of their undercoat.
I'm sure everyone is familiar with this activity! You need
to assist your dog with this process by combing the
hair out as soon as it comes loose. This not only helps your
dog cool off sooner, it also helps him have a healthier, prettier
coat because the dead, ugly stuff is gone and the combing
action stimulates their new coat. If you leave the hair
to fall out "naturally", it may never completely
come out. It can also lead to "hot spots" - Acute Moist
Dermatitis - which is a festering "wound" under the dead hair.
There are many other causes for these, but heavily coated breeds
like the Siberian Husky encounter this problem more often
in hot/humid weather. It is thought to have something
to do with lack of ventilation in the coat. Hot spots take
a long time to cure once they set in, so brush that hair
out!
I should note that the coats we get on our dogs here
are MUCH denser that the coats they had in Arizona. The
dogs seem to adjust to the different climates that way.
This is how the Siberian Husky thrives wherever he lives.
If you thought you had a problem getting a good coat here,
though, try it in one of these hotter places. It can be a
real challenge, because they don't get their coat in until
October/November and it starts to fall out already
in March! I should also mention that coat color doesn't
seem to have as much affect on the dogs. While the
black coats are warmer to the touch, the dogs with black
coats do not seem to be any more uncomfortable than the
other dogs. The biggest problems with coat color have to
do with the sun and it's effects on the coat. This is
where the importance of shade comes in. The red coats are
very prone to sunburn. The black coats would come in a
distant second. The grays, an even more distant third.
NEVER, NEVER, EVER leave your dog locked in a
closed vehicle. The temperature in a car will build up quickly,
especially on a sunny day. Your dog could be dead
in less than 10 minutes! If you must leave your dog
in your vehicle (such as at a dog show or similar type
of event), make sure that there are open windows, doors,
or tailgate - anything to get air flowing through. Try
to park in the shade, and even take the kennels out
of the vehicle and put them in the shade. You can put up
tarps, but do not block the breeze. Leave the vehicle running
with the air conditioning on high if necessary. If
it is not essential to have your dog along, and you will
be stopping and entering places where your dog is not
welcome, do your dog a favor and leave him home! He will miss
you while you are gone, but at least he will be alive
to greet you when you return.
In summary, the best guideline I can give you to
help keep your Siberian cool would be to follow the same things
you would do for yourself. When people are hot, we remove
clothing (get rid of "coat"), go swimming,
and seek shade. Of course, some of us retreat to air conditioning.
This can work for the dogs too, but you need to be careful:
if your dog gets used to the air conditioning one day,
but is stuck out in the kennel the next day, he will suffer
more than if he is used to being out in the kennel
all day (same policy holds for winter and heating). If
you are going to bring your dogs into the air conditioning,
do it consistently, or not at all. Most Siberians survive
the summer heat outside just fine - with a little
help from their owners!
IN HONOR OF RUTH FOSTER --Gail Peterson
Ruth Foster has a way with dogs. She also has a way with people, and this combination of traits has brought her the affection, admiration, and respect of dog enthusiasts throughout Minnesota and around the country. At one point in her long relationship with dogs, Ruth owned a Siberian and was one of the earliest members of our club. Over the years she has served as Obedience Judge at several of our specialty shows, has presented programs to the club, and many of our members have trained under her at Twin Cities Obedience Training Club in Minneapolis. Several years ago, by unanimous assent, the Siberian Husky Club of the Twin Cities proudly extended honorary lifetime membership to Ruth in recognition of the many contributions she had made to the general welfare of Siberians and all other breeds. This year, in reaffirmation of that high regard, the SHCTC has dedicated this Specialty Show to her. We are extremely pleased that Ruth has graciously accepted this tribute and has been able to join us today.
Ruth Foster has dedicated her life to making the world a better place for dogs and their owners. An expert in virtually all facets of the hobby, Ruth’s forte is dog behavior. No one can get a dog (any dog) to behave the way Ruth Foster can. She has The Touch. Ruth can take the leash of an unruly dog and, with little more than a few soft murmurs, judicious looks, and gentle tugs, convert it into a calm and well-mannered companion. She has long been the guiding light in the Twin Cities dog community’s move toward widespread use of positive training methods. For example, she has been the major influence in the philosophy, policies, and procedures of the Twin Cities Obedience Training Club since its inception, served TCOTC as the Director of Training, and still offers special classes there. She is an AKC obedience judge and a past President of the National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors. Ruth has also played prominent roles in the Minnesota Purebred Dog Breeders Association and the American Dog Owners Association. Her exemplary conduct and positive influence earned her formal distinction as “One Who Cares” by KARE-TV (Channel 11), a prestigious local good-citizen recognition award.
Ruth has worked tirelessly for nearly three decades as a community partner with the University of Minnesota Center for the Study of Human-Animal Relationships & Environments (CENSHARE), where she serves as a central member of the Executive Committee. As a volunteer for CENSHARE, she has worked with the Companion Animal Humane Society of Ramsey and St. Croix Counties to improve the behavior of shelter dogs in order to make them more attractive and suitable members of their new adoptive families. Ruth has served as a teacher and judge in the 4-H dog program and, through CENSHARE, is currently working with other volunteers on a comprehensive 4-H program to encourage gentler, kinder dog training methods. She has received awards from the Minneapolis Public Schools for her work in the classroom teaching gentle handling and nurturing of dogs. Again through her work with CENSHARE, Ruth was one of the founders of Helping Paws, Inc., a local nonprofit organization which trains service dogs to help people with disabilities. She also helped produce a series of educational videos on the proper care and use of dogs as companions to the residents of nursing homes and long term care facilities. Ruth is also the co-inventor, with Dr. R.K. Anderson, of the Gentle Leader®, a simple but revolutionarily innovative headcollar for dogs which is becoming more and more popular with each passing day because of the ease of control it gives the person and the comforting assurance it gives the dog. Ruth displayed the Gentle Leader® recently at an exhibit at the St. Paul Science Museum honoring women inventors. Her invention was also featured recently in an exclusive exhibit of important American inventions at the Smithsonean’s National Museum of American History in Washington, DC. In keeping with her characteristic generosity, Ruth has donated the great bulk of the royalties from sales of the Gentle Leader® (which number well over a million units in the USA alone, plus hundreds of thousands more around the world) to the U of M to support CENSHARE’s pioneering work in the burgeoning new field of the human-animal bond.
As devoted as she has been to dogs, Ruth has been even more devoted to her husband Bob and their four children. Fortunately, Bob loves dogs every bit as much as Ruth does, has been totally supportive of her many activities with dogs and dog clubs throughout her career, and has become a well recognized figure at dog shows in his own right. To the delight of many SHCTC members, Ruth and Bob’s 49th wedding anniversary coincided with the banquet for the National Siberian Husky Specialty we hosted in the autumn of 1997, and we were thrilled to have them as our guests that evening and honored to celebrate their anniversary with them. This autumn, of course, they will celebrate 55 years of marriage.
Much more could be written about Ruth Foster, and it would all be as wholesome and positive and uplifting as that above. Ruth is basically a very modest person, and not at all one to boast of her accomplishments, but there are more achievements and awards than have been mentioned here. Suffice it to say that the SHCTC is extremely proud to have had Ruth Foster as its dear friend for many years, and we are so pleased to have been able to dedicate this Specialty Show to her as a small gesture of our most sincere appreciation.
Let’s Talk About
the STANDARD! - Compiled by Bobbie Palmer
WHY do we have a Standard? Why do we even Need a Standard? Who cares about what some people wrote
hundreds of years ago? This is now, and
the dogs we breed and see are the Siberians of the 21st
Century. Are these the questions you
ask yourself and your friends, sometimes?
Well, let’s look at the why’s
& wherefore’s and decide what we are trying to preserve. What we are trying to produce and protect
and what we’re talking about. Think
about this tho…. WHY did you buy a
Siberian Husky? Was it because its
beauty caught your attention? Or it’s
independence? Or it’s build? It’s free spirit? Would you want to REALLY change all these attributes? The following is taken from “International Siberian Husky Club, Inc., Presents
THE SIBERIAN HUSKY,” 2nd Edition published in 1977, and I
believe now out of print, with additional comments from Michael Jenning’s book
“Siberian Husky, Able Athlete, Able
Friend,” published in 1999. The ISHC
piece was prepared by John Tanner.
KEY:
1896—Shirinsky-Shihmatoff Study of
Yakoot Laika
1930—First Standard of the Breed
1938—First Standard produced by the
Siberian Husky Club of America & accepted by AKC
1941—Revision by SHCA & accepted by
AKC
1963—Revision by SHCA and approved by
AKC
1972—Revision by SHCA and approved by
AKC
1990—Reformatting by AKC accepted by
SHCA
GENERAL
APPEARANCE
1896 A medium-sized
draught animal with a well-muscled body, having a slightly long-haired coat,
quite soft with a thick down undercoat.
Medium muzzle, ears upright, and tail busy—generally carried in a
ring. The expression in his moderately
cross-cut eyes is indicative of “...his devotion to man who he serves
faithfully and disinterestedly.”
1930 For hundreds
of years the Siberian Husky has been used as a sled dog in northeastern
Asia. He should be exceptionally
active, quick, and light on his feet, able to run in harness with a load at a
speed of 20 miles an hour for short distances.
He should be strong, courageous, and tireless on the rail. He should have a deep strong chest, heavy
bone, strong legs and feet, straight powerful back, and well-muscled
hindquarters. A grown dog should stand
about 23 inches at the shoulders and weight about 60 pounds. A bitch should be smaller and weigh about
10-12 pounds less.
1938 The Siberian
Husky is an alert, gracefully built, medium-sized dog with a strong, compact
body, not too short-coupled with a powerful back of medium length, quick and
light on his feet, deep shot chest, medium bone, well-muscled hindquarters,
thick soft undercoat, and a not too long outer coat lying close to this
body. There is a fox-like appearance to
the head, and a brush tail is carried curled over the back when working or interested
and trailing in repose. Bitches are
smaller in size and weight than male dogs averaging two inches less in height
and 10 pounds less in weight.
1941
The Siberian Husky is an alert, gracefully built,
medium-sized dog, quick and light on his feet, and
free and graceful in action. He has a strong, moderately compact body, a
deep strong chest, well-muscled shoulders and hindquarters, and straight strong
legs of medium bone. His coat is dense
and very soft, and his brush tail is carried curved over his back when at
attention and trailing when in repose.
His head presents a finely chiseled and often fox-like expression. His characteristic gait is tireless and
almost effortless when free or on a loose lead but showing great strength when
pulling. The trot is brisk and smooth
and quite fast. Bitches are smaller
than dogs, averaging up to two inches shorter and 10 pounds less in
weight. Siberians range in build from
moderately compact (but never cobby) to moderately rangy. In all builds the bone must be medium, the
back powerful (never slack from excessive length) and the shoulder height never
exceeding 23.5 inches (any ranginess is merely a matter of proportion, not of
actual height).
1963 The Siberian
Husky is a medium-sized working dog of powerful but graceful build. His moderately compact and well-furred body,
erect ears, and brush tail curved over the back suggest the northern heritage
of the capable sled dog. His
characteristic gait is free and effortless but unbelievably strong when called
upon to pull. And the keen and friendly
expression of his slightly oblique eyes indicates the amenable disposition of
the good companion.
1972 The Siberian
Husky is a medium-sized working dog, quick and light on his feet and free and
graceful action. His moderately compact
and well-furred body, erect ears, and brush tail suggest his northern
heritage. His characteristic gait is
smooth and seemingly effortless. He
performs his original function in harness most capably, carrying a light load
at a moderate speed over great distances.
His body proportions and form reflect the basic balance of power, speed,
and endurance. The males of the
Siberian Husky breed are masculine but never coarse; the bitches are feminine
but without weakness of structure. In
proper condition, with muscle firm and developed, the Siberian Husky does not
carry excessive weight.
1990 The Siberian
Husky is a medium-sized working dog, quick and light on his feet and graceful
in action. His moderately compact and
well-furred body, erect ears, and brush tail suggest his northern heritage. His characteristic gait is smooth and
seemingly effortless. He performs his
original function in harness most capably, carrying a light load at a moderate
speed over a great distance. His body
proportions and form reflect this basic power, speed, and endurance. The males of the Siberian Husky breed are
masculine but ever coarse; the bitches are feminine but without weakness of
structure. In proper condition, with muscle
firm and well-muscled, the Siberian Husky does not carry excessive weight.
Comment:
(by
author, M. Jennings) “The Siberian is
quite simply, a dog invented to fill a very specific need, an extremely frugal
animal bred for a harsh environment so underlying this simple description is a
prescription for moderation that would please even the staunchest
Aristotelian. In the space of several
sentences. We find that the Siberian is
“medium-sized,” “moderately compact,” reflects a “balance of power, speed, and
endurance” that males are “masculine but not coarse” and bitches “feminine
without weakness of structure,” that they should both be “dry,” carrying no
excess weight, nor fleshy or loose. We
find also, the reason for this prescription: that the original function of the
Siberian was to carry a “light load at a moderate speed over great distances.”
This is a tremendously important phrase in coming to an understanding of the
conformation of the Siberian. For
although he has gained much recognition for his accomplishments, in the area of
Arctic and Antarctic exploration, as well as in the field of sled dog racing,
he was intended neither as a heavy draft animal nor as a sprinter. He was bred to pull light loads often as
much as 100 miles in a single day, a job that required a dog that was “quick
and light on his feet and graceful in action.”
Anything clumsy or heavy in movement would be unable to maintain the
pace required of these dogs; anything too refined would lack the necessary
pulling power and stamina.”
(Editor’s note: From here we take the current Standard into
the 1990 reformatting style that the AKC developed for all breeds, and
comments or comparisons might be a little askew and not in the same
order.. AND DUE TO THE ALMOST ENTIRELY
EXACT WORDING AS THE ‘72 STANDARD, WE WILL NOT REPRINT ’90.)
HEAD
1896 Skull--Of medium
size, the brow is seen to be broad and triangular in form when viewed from
above. The temples and jaws are
moderately broad and the muzzle moderately short in comparison with the head,
while the breadth of the temples make the muzzle appear sharp. Skull and muzzle are delicately formed; the
teeth sharp and fine.
Ears--Upright,
highly set, and moderately rounded.
When excited, they are pricked but incline slightly toward the muzzle.
Eyes--Set moderately
cross-cut, medium-sized and always brown. (Ed. emphasis!)
Nose--The nose is
invariably black.
1930 The size of
the head should be in proportion to the body but not too clumsy or too
large. It should be of medium width
between the ears. The ears should be
erect, set high on the head, medium in size, pointed at the tops, and well
covered with fur on the insides. It
should be of medium length and slightly wedged shaped. The jaws and teeth are very strong and
should never be overshot or undershot.
The eye may be either blue or brown with a keen and friendly
expression. Eye rims dark. The nose may be light brown or black. The muzzle should be strong, the lips dark
and firmly fitting together.
1938 Head--Medium-sized
in proportion to the body, width between the ears medium to narrow, gradually
narrowing to eyes and moderately rounded.
Muzzle--Medium
length, lips dark and closely fitting, jaws and teeth strong, meeting in a
scissors bite. (Editor’s emphasis)
Nose--Light brown
or black in white Siberians; a red nose is allowed.
Eyes--Should be only
slightly obliquely set in skull, either brown or blue in color, with a keen,
friendly, fox-like expression. White
eyes are permissible and are not a sign of impure breeding. Eye rims should be dark.
Ears--Erect, set
high on the head, close fitting, small or medium in size, moderately rounded,
and well covered with hair on the inside.
There is the appearance of an arch behind the ears.
1941 Skull--Of medium
size in proportion to the body; width between the ears medium to narrow, gradually tapering to eyes, and moderately
rounded. Muzzle of medium length, both
the skull and muzzle are finely chiseled.
Lips dark and close fitting; jaws and teeth strong, meeting with a
scissors bite. Faults--Head clumsy or
heavy, muzzle bulky (like the Alaskan Malamute), skull too wide between the
ears, snipey, coarse.
Ears--Of medium
size, erect, closely fitting, set high on the head, and well arched with hair
on the inside. There is an arch on the
back of the ears. Ears are slightly
taller than the width of the base and moderately rounded at the tips. When the dog is at attention, ears are
usually carried practically parallel on top of the head with the inner edges
quite close together at the base.
Faults--Low-set ears, ears, too large, “flat ears,” lop ears.
Eyes--Either brown
or blue (“watch” or “china”) in color, one blue and one brown eye permissible
but not desirable. Set obliquely on
skull. Eyes have a keen, friendly
expression, and the expression is distinctly “interested,” sometimes even
mischievous.
Nose--Black for
preference, with brown allowed in specimens of reddish-colored coat, and flesh-
colored nose and eye rims in white dogs.
Some dogs, especially black and white, have what is often termed a “snow
nose” or smudge nose, i.e., a nose normally solid black but acquiring a pink
streak in winter. This is permissible
but not desirable.
1963 Skull--Of medium
size, in proportion to the body; a trifle rounded on the top and tapering
gradually to the eyes, the width between the ears is medium to narrow. Muzzle medium long; that is, the distance
from nose to stop is about equal to the distance from stop to occiput. Skull and muzzle are finely chiseled. Lips dark are close fitting, the jaws
strong, and the teeth meeting in a scissors bite. Faults--Head too heavy, skull to side, muzzle either bulky,
snipey, or coarse.
Ears--Medium in
size, set high and carried erect. When
at attention, they are practically parallel to each other. They are moderately rounded at the tips and
well-furred on the inner side.
Faults--Too large, too low set, and not strongly erect.
Eyes--Set a trifle
obliquely, their expression is keen but friendly, interested, and even
mischievous. Color may be either brown
or blue; one brown eye and one blue eye being permissible but not desirable. Faults--Eyes too obliquely set.
Nose--Preferably
black with brown allowed in specimens of reddish coat and flesh-colored nose
and eye rims allowed in white dogs. The
nose that is temporarily pink-streaked in winter is permissible but not
desirable.
1972 Skull--Of medium
size and in proportion to the body, slightly rounded on top and tapering
gradually from the widest point to the eyes.
Faults--Head clumsy or heavy; head too finely chiseled.
Muzzle--Of medium
length; that is, the distance from the tip of the nose to the stop is equal to
the distance from the stop to the occiput.
The stop is well-defined, and the bridge of the nose is straight from
the stop to the tip. The muzzle is of
medium width, tapering gradually to the nose, with the tip neither pointed nor
square. The lips are well-pigmented and
lose fitting; teeth closing in a scissors bite. Faults– Muzzle either too snipey or too coarse; muzzle too short
or too long. insufficient stop, any bite other than scissors.
Ears--Of medium
size, triangular in shape, close fitting, and set high on the head. They are thick, well-furred, slightly
rounded tips pointing straight up.
Faults--Ears too large in proportion to the head, too wide set, not
strongly erect.
Eyes--Almond-shaped,
moderately spaced, and set a rifle obliquely.
The expression is keen, but friendly, interested, and even
mischievous. Eyes may be brown, or blue
color; one of each or parti-colored eyes are acceptable. Faults--Eyes set too obliquely, set too
close together.
Nose--Black in gray,
tan, or black dogs, liver in copper dogs; may be flesh-colored in pure white
dogs. The pink-streaked “snow nose” is
acceptable.
COMMENT: “Along with coat type, and general size
and proportion of the body, the head is the primary indictor of type in a breed,
and thus is an important factor in the assessment of any purebred dog. It has been argued that heads are basically
a matter of aesthetic whim and have little to do with the actual functioning
capability of a breed. This is, of
course, not altogether true.
“A Siberian, for instance, would be hard-pressed to survive in an Arctic
climate with anything but a well-furred ear, and an argument could probably be
made that the smaller ear, as compared to that of the German Shepherd, would be
less vulnerable to cold. The erect ear
is also more generally efficient than the hanging ear and less prone to
infection. It has further been
hypothesized by Richard and Alice Fennes in their book, “The Natural History of Dogs,” that the well-defined stop called for
in the Siberian Husky Standard allows for the maximum development of the
frontal sinuses, which trap exhaled warmed air, thereby forming a warm cushion
over the delicate tissues of the eyes and forebrain and also helping warm the
cold inhaled air as it passes along the nasal passages. Veteran drivers like Roland Lombard have
argued that a muzzle shorter than required by the Standard fails to warm the
air sufficiently before entering the sinuses.
The requirement for close-fitting lips addresses a survival need in
sub-zero temperatures, and one feature noted by the earliest fanciers was the
dogs’ ability to work with their mouths closed, thereby avoiding frost bitten
lungs. The scissors bite is the most
efficient for tearing food with minimum wear.
The medium-sized head, like the medium length of neck called for in a
later section of the Standard, is optimal for endurance, the head and neck
performing a vital function in the maintenance of balance and the movement of
the front assembly. Since it can probably
be further argued that the almond-shaped eye called for in the Standard is the
one most easily protected between the frontal bones and zygomatic arch
(cheekbones) and found most frequently among wild canids, this leaves only the
slightly oblique eye set and very high ear set called for by the Standard in
the realm of simple aesthetic purposes.
But since these characteristics were found on the majority of early
specimens, and since they are among the characteristics distinguishing the
Siberian from his cousins, the Alaskan Malamute, Samoyed, and the no longer
recognized Eskimo, requiring their maintenance seems eminently justifiable..”
“Another issue raised by the Standard Review Committee is whether a more
blanket endorsement of various eye colors wouldn’t be more helpful, such as
“eye color immaterial,” thus more clearly endorsing the various amber and gold
shades consistent with red dogs and their sometimes even greenish shades
created by certain parti-colored mixtures in eyes.”
BODY
1896 Neck--The neck is moderately short and
well-muscled.
Body--Compact and
muscular, the set of the legs broad, the chest low and deep, the back very
slightly hollowed, and the ribs a little arched. Groin slightly drawn in.
1930 Chest and Ribs--Chest should be deep and
strong, but not too broad. The ribs should be
well-arched and deep.
Back,
Quarters and Stifles--The loin should be slightly arched and especially
well-muscled. The stifle should be well
let down and very muscular. The back
should be straight, not too long, and strongly developed.
1938 Chest, Ribs
and Shoulders--Chest should be deep and strong, but not too broad, ribs
well-arched and deep, shoulders strong and powerful.
Back
and Loins--Back
of medium length, not too long, but strongly developed, loins well-muscled, but
no surplus weight, and should be slightly arched.
1941 Chest, Ribs and
Shoulders--Chest
should be deep and strong but not too broad, ribs should be well-arched and
deep. Shoulders well-developed and
powerful. Faults--Chest too broad (like
the Alaskan Malamute) weak or flat chest, weak shoulders.
Back,
Loin and Quarters--Back of medium length, but too long or cobby (like the
Elkhound) and strongly developed. Loin
well-muscled and slightly arched and should carry no excess weight or fat. Hindquarters powerful and shows good
angulation. Faults--Weak or slack back
and any weakness in hindquarters.
1963 Neck--Strong, ached, and fairly short.
Body--Moderately
compact but not cobby. Chest, deep and
strong but too broad, the ribs well sprung and deep. Shoulders powerful and well laid back. Back of medium length and strong, the topline level. Loins taut, lean, and very slightly
arched. Body Faults--Weak or slack
back, roachback
1972 Neck--Medium length,
arched, and carried proudly erect when dog is standing. When moving at a trot, the neck is extended
so that the head is carried slightly forward.
Faults--Neck too short and thick, neck too long.
Shoulders--The shoulder
blade is well laid back at an approximate angle of 45 degrees to the ground. The upper arm angles slightly backward from
the point of shoulder to elbow, and is never perpendicular to the ground. The muscles and ligaments holding the
shoulder to the rib cage are firm and well-developed. Faults--Straight shoulders, loose shoulders.
Chest--Deep and
strong, but not too broad, with the deepest point being just behind and level
with the elbows. The ribs are well
sprung from the spine but flattened to the sides to allow for freedom of
action. Faults--Chest too broad,
“barrel ribs,” ribs too flat or weak
Back--The back is
straight and strong with a level topline from withers to croup. It is of medium length, neither cobby nor
slack from excessive length. The loin
is taut and lean, narrower than the rib cage and with a slight tuck-up. The croup slopes away from the spine at an
angle, but never so steeply as to restrict the rearward thrust of the hid
legs. In profile, the length of the
body from the point of the shoulder to the rear point of the croup is slightly
longer than the height of the body from the ground to the top of the
withers. Faults--Weak or slack back,
roached back, sloping topline.
COMMENTS: The neck is primarily what keeps the
dog from falling on its face as the rear drives it forward. Muscles attached just below the base of the
skull lift the forelimbs and propel them forward and back. The strength of these muscles is evident in
the arched neck when the dog is alert and standing. But as they come into play in the moving dog, it becomes
necessary for the head and neck to extend forward for maximum
effectiveness. In the Siberian, we ask
that the neck be medium in length simply because, like the medium skull, bones,
etc., this is the most effective size where both speed and stamina are
desirable.
“The chest houses
heart and lungs and so should be of sufficient depth to provide ample
room. But in a breed designed for
maximum suppleness at a lope, the chest cannot be too wide and must be
flattened on the sides. Otherwise, it
will impede the free movement of the front legs. So, too, with depth of chest.
According to Dr. Roland Lombard, there has probably never been an
effective sled dog with a chest deeper than its elbows. In fact, in the well-built Siberian, it is
probably only the hair on the chest that brings it to the level of the elbows,
the chest itself being just higher and out of the way. Although the Standard asks for a “level
topline,” what is meant is the appearance of a level topline since, in fact the
spine dips downward from the withers above the shoulders before rising into the
arch of the spine that creates the “tuck-up” in the loin. That arch is the main point of energy
transference from the rear to the front, and in the effective galloper those
muscles will be extremely powerful.”
LEGS
AND FEET
1896 Legs--The legs are
straight, thin, and light. The knee of
the hind leg is slightly bent forward.
The thigh is moderately short.
Feet—The paw is raw and spatulate, the footprint differing little
from that of the wolf. In thoroughbred
Laikas, there is no fifth toe. When it
is met with, it is the result of cross breeding.
1930 Legs--Straight and of good length,
well-muscled, and good bone.
Feet--Strong, not
too compact, with exceptionally tough pads protected with hair.
1938 Legs--Straight,
well-muscled, and good bone, but not too heavy. Dew claws sometimes appear on the hind legs and although not a
fault, they are better removed especially as they interfere with the dog’s
work.
Feet--Oblong in
shape and not too broad as the Eskimo dog or the Alaskan Malamute; well-furred
between the pads which are tough and thickly cushioned.
1941 Legs--Straight and
well-muscled, with good bone (but never heavy bone like the Alaskan Malamute or
Eskimo dog), stifles well bent. Dew
claws occasionally appear on the hind legs They are not of impure breeding, but
as they do interfere with the dog’s work, they should be removed, preferably at
birth. Faults--Heavy bone, too light
bone, lack of proper angulation in hind legs.
Feet--Oblong in
shape, not so broad as Eskimo dog’s or Alaskan Malamute’s, well-furred between
the pads, which are tough and thickly cushioned, compact, neither too large
(like the Alaskan Malamute) nor too small (like the Samoyed). The Siberian foot, like that of other true
Arctic dogs, is a ”snowshoe” foot, i.e., it is somewhat webbed between the toes
like a retriever’s foot. Good feet are
very important and therefore feet should always be examined in the ring. Faults--Soft or splayed feet, feet too
large, or clumsy, feet too small or delicate.
1963 Legs--The legs are
straight and well-muscled with bone substantial but not heavy. Hindquarters powerful with good angulation,
well bent stifles. Dew claws on the
rear legs, if any, are to be removed.
Feet--Oval in shape,
medium in size; compact and well-furred between the toes. Pads tough and deeply cushioned. In short a typical snowshoe foot, somewhat
webbed between the toes. Faults--Bone
too light or too heavy, insufficient bend in stifles, weak pasterns, feet soft
and/or splayed.
1972 Forelegs--When standing
and viewed from the front, the legs are moderately spaced parallel and
straight, with elbows close to the body and turned neither in nor out. Viewed from the side pasterns are slightly
slanted, with the pastern joint strong, but flexible. Bone of the leg from elbow to ground is slightly more than the
distance from the elbows to the top of the withers. Dew claws on the forelegs may be removed. Faults--Weak pasterns, too heavy bone, too
narrow or too wide in the front, out at the elbows.
Hindquarters--When
standing and viewed from the rear, the hindquarters are moderately spaced and
parallel. The upper thighs are
well-muscled and powerful, the stifles well-bent, the hock joint well-defined
and set low to the ground. Dew claws,
if any, are to be removed.
Faults--Straight stifles, cow hocks, too narrow or too wide in the rear.
Feet--Oval in
shape, but not too long. The paws are
medium in size, compact, and well-furred between the toes and pads. The pads are tough and thickly cushioned. The paws neither turn in or out when dog is
in natural stance. Faults--Soft or
splayed toes, paws too large and clumsy, paws too small and delicate, toeing in
or out.
1990 Forequarters--Shoulders--The shoulder
blade is well laid back. The upper arm
angles slightly backward from point of shoulder to elbow and is never
perpendicular to the ground. The
muscles and ligaments holding the shoulder to the rib cage are firm and well
developed. Faults--Straight shoulders,
loose shoulders
Forelegs--(see ‘72)
Comment: “Forequarters: In asking for a well
laid back shoulder, I take the Standard to mean a shoulder blade that is angled
approximately 30-40 degrees from the perpendicular, with 35 degrees being
perhaps ideal. This, at least, is what
studies of the racing sled dog have indicated.
Though the benefits of extreme shoulder layback have long been touted by
show ring “reach and drive” enthusiasts, Curtis Brown, in his book “Dog Locomotion and Gait Analysis,” is
probably right when he suggests that extreme shoulder layback is probably only
highly desirable in dogs meant to dig.
This optimal angle of 35 degrees then is established when the heel pad
is set directly under the center of the shoulder blade and not when feet are any
further forward, as is sometimes the case in the show ring when the front is
“dropped” into position by the handler.
This is why it is also asked that the upper arm angle backward to the
elbow and not be perpendicular to the ground, since a straight-shouldered dog
can be made to give the appearance of having more shoulder layback by bringing
the front legs forward, thus rotting the shoulder blade backward. It is also true that contemporary show
Siberians tend to have a shorter, straighter upper arm than is generally
considered desirable.
“But it is the muscles, tendons, and ligaments and how they function,
that are of paramount importance.
Unfortunately, although it is implied, little is said about the lay-on
or wraparound of the front assembly, which is absolutely critical to a good
front. But a front assembly is only as
good as it functions, and while it is while gaiting that a shoulder can be best
appraised, according to its fluency, rotation of the blade (about 15 degrees
according to Dr. Lombard), shock absorbency, and smoothness of topline. To feel good shoulders, allow good
muscling--the larger the blade, the larger area for muscle adherence. And the smoother the blend of neck into
topline, whether standing or gaiting, the better.”
“Hindquarters--The
description of hindquarters is again in the interest of speed and
endurance. The highest-hocked animals,
like rabbits, run faster but tire quickly.
Short pasterns mean endurance.
But thought the Standard calls for a low hock joint, it is worth noting
that Doc Lombard warns against a rear pastern that is too short, a hock joint
that is too low, because too much speed is lost. In fact, a recent, fairly small sampling of measurements of
working Siberians showed the length of the rear pasterns to be about one-third
the height of the top of the pelvis in bitches and very slightly longer in
males.”
TAIL
1896 The tail is
long, very bushy, and carried curled on the back, a little sideways, generally
tightly twisted around, occasionally sickle-like, and more rarely dropped
(wolf-like).
1930 Long, usually
carried curled over back but sometimes dropped down, especially when
tired. Should be well protected with
fur and hair, but bushy tails not desirable.
1938 A fox-like
brush carried over back when working or interested and trailing in repose;
described as a “sickle tail with a fox-like brush,” well-furred.
1941 Well-furred
brush carried over back in a sickle curve when running or at attention and
trailing out behind when working or in repose.
Tail should not snap flat to the back.
Hair on tail is usually medium in length varying somewhat with the
length of the dog’s coat
1963 A well-furred
brush carried over the back in a sickle curve when the dog runs or stands at
attention, and in trailing out behind when working or in repose. When carried up, the typical tail does not
curl to either side of the body nor does it snap flat to the back. The tail hair is usually of medium length
although the length varies somewhat with overall coat length.
1972 The
well-furred tail of fox-brush shape is set on just below the level of the
topline and is usually carried over the back in a graceful sickle curve when
the dog is at attention. When carried
up, the tail does not curl to either side of the body nor does it snap flat
against the back. A tailing tail is
normal for the dog when working or in repose.
Hair on the tail is of medium length and approximately the same length
on top, sides, and bottom, giving the appearance of a round brush. Faults--A snapped tail or tightly curled
tail, highly plumed tail, tail set too high or too low.
Comments:
“There
are two elements that define the correct Siberian tail--the set and the
carriage. The tail should be set on
just below the level of the topline because of the slight fall away of the
croup at about 30 to 35 degrees, but the carriage is of equal importance since
it indicates much about the muscling of the rear assembly and the back. A correct tail may be carried in a relaxed
sickle curve above the back when the dog is standing at attention or when it is
moving, or it may be dropped when the animal is standing and trailing out
behind when it is moving. But it should
never touch the back or curl down the loin.
When a Siberian is working, on the other hand, the tail is almost always
trailing and may act as a kind of rudder that counterbalances movement to right
or left. It is an interesting
historical fact that so many early Siberians had fairly tight tails by current
standards despite Leonhard Seppala’s observation that the looser sickle tail
worked better. I suspect that just as
Arctic peoples tend to prefer dark dogs so as to instantly distinguish them
from indigenous wolves, so, too, with curled tail. It allowed then to distinguish at a glance whether the animal was
lupine or canine. The request for the
even brush shape rather than a heavily plumed tail is simply consistent with
the medium-length coat that is requested in the next section.” (Ed.
Note: It is also a known fact
that in this Arctic breed the tail must be of sufficient length to cover the nose
and face in adverse weather conditions when the dog is sleeping, so as to warm
the sinus areas and warming the incoming air.)
No section of gait appears in any Standard prior to 1972, which is currently the way the 1990 Standard reads also.
1972
& 1990 The Siberian
Husky’s characteristic gait is smooth and seemingly effortless. He is quick and light on his feet, and when
in the show ring, should be gaited on a loose lead at a moderately fast trot,
exhibiting good reach in the forequarters and good drive in the
hindquarters. When viewed from the
front to rear when walking at a walk, the Siberian Husky does not single track,
but as the speed increases, the legs gradually angle inward until the pads are
falling in a line directly under the longitudinal center of the body. As the pad marks converge, the forelegs and
hind legs are carried straightforward, with neither elbows or stifles turning
in or out. Each hind leg moves in the
path of the foreleg on the same side.
While the dog is gaiting, the topline remains firm and level. Faults--Short, prancing or choppy gait,
lumbering or rolling gait, crossing, crabbing.
Comments: “With the exception of a few
stipulations made in the interest of type and refinement, everything in the
Standard so far has led up to this demand for “smooth and effortless”
movement. In other words, this is where
the phrase “the whole equals the sum of the parts” is particularly relevant,
since, basically, the moving dog is the whole dog. Balance is the key to movement, in other words, and the dog who
is slightly under-angulated, but balanced front and rear, will probably move
better than, and is thus preferable to, a dog who is extreme in one quarter but
not the other. It should be noted, too,
that any forward reach that plants
the foot any further forward than directly under the ear or eye is inefficient
as it creates negative energy by essentially putting on the brakes every time
the foot hits the ground. The request for single tracking and for the rear legs
to follow in the line of the front is in the interest of efficiency. Remember that the Standard asks for a
balance of power, speed, and endurance, and that this balance will be reflected
in a dog who is “light and quick on his feet” and whose “gait is smooth and seemingly
effortless.”
COAT
1896 The fur is
straight, thick, and long, the hair fine, the down furry, very close and
soft. A mane clearly defined around the
neck and falling over the chest.
1930 Should be
thick with a very soft and warm under fur next to the skin. The guard hair should not be too long and
should be straight, not too coarse, and fairly close to the body so that the
graceful lines of the dog are not obscured.
A busy or shaggy coat is not desirable.
1938 The Siberian
has a thick, soft, downy undercoat of fur next to the skin, and an outer coat
of guard hairs which are thick, not too long (like that of the Samoyed) of soft
texture and lying close to the body.
The appearance is not shaggy but a thick full-furred appearance without
the coarseness of a “standoff” coat.
1941 The Siberian
Husky has a thick, soft, double coat consisting of a soft, dense, downy
undercoat of fur next to the skin and an outer coat of soft smooth texture
giving a smooth full-furred appearance and a clear outline (in contrast to the
harsh, coarse coat of the Alaskan Malamute or the bear-like Eskimo Dog
coat). The coat is usually medium in
length. Faults--A rough and shaggy
appearance (like the Samoyed, Alaskan Malamute or Eskimo Dog), absence of
undercoat (except when actually shedding).
1963 Double. The
undercoat is dense, soft, and downy, and should be of sufficient length and
density to support the outer coat. The
outer coat is very thick, smooth textured and soft, giving a smooth,
full-furred appearance, and a clean outline.
It is usually medium in length, a longer coat is allowed so long as the
texture is soft and remains the same in any length. Faults--Harsh texture, or a rough look which obscured the
clean-cut outline of the dog, absence of undercoat except while actually
shedding.
1972 The coat of
the Siberian Husky is double and medium in length, giving a well-furred
appearance, but is never so long as to obscure the clean cut outline of the
dog. The undercoat is soft and dense
and of sufficient length to support the outer coat. The guard hairs of the outer coat are straight and somewhat
smooth-lying, never harsh nor standing straight off from the body. It should be noted that the absence of the
undercoat during the shedding season is normal. Trimming of the whiskers and fur between the toes and around the
feet to present a neater appearance is permissible. Trimming of the fur on any other part of the dog is not to be
condoned and should be severely penalized.
Faults--Long, rough, shaggy coat, texture too harsh or too silky,
trimming of the coat, except as noted above.
Comments: “The coat of the Siberian is unique
among Arctic breeds because of its medium length, both the Alaskan Malamute and
the Samoyed having somewhat longer, shaggier coats. The reason for the difference lies primarily in the difference in
climates in which these dogs were originally bred… the Siberian the specific
conditions of climate and terrain found in his homeland made the formation of
ice balls in a long coat an ever-present danger. Thus consciously or unconsciously, the Chukchi developed a coat
their dogs could both withstand the Arctic cold and prevent the formation of
ice balls. Nevertheless there does
exist a certain range of coat length probably from about one inch to three
inches (varying somewhat on different areas of the body) that is considered
typically Siberian so long as the dog’s outline remains unobscured. The love of profuse coat in the show fancy
has led some breeders to produce coats so profuse as to require trimming of the
underline to maintain a clean-cut outline.
This is specifically prohibited by the Standard.”
COLOR
1896 The
predominating hues are: Pure white, black with ashy brown and tips ashy gray,
yellowed white, and more rarely dark yellowish gray. A spotted coat is rarely seen and never in thoroughbred specimens
1930 All colors permissible pure white to
black including many grays and mixed wolf colorings.
1938 All colors are permissible from white
to black with many variations.
1941 All colors and
white are allowed and all markings. The
commonest colors are various shades of wolf and silver grays, tan (a light
sable) and black with white points. A
large variety of markings especially head markings are found in the Siberian
including many striking and unusual ones not found in any other breed. Frequently found are the cap-like mask and
spectacle markings.
1963 All colors and
white, and all markings are allowed.
The various shades of wolf and silver grays, tan, and black with white
points are most usual. A variety of
markings, especially on the head, are common to the breed. These including many striking and unusual
patterns not found in any other breeds.
The cap-like mask and spectacles are typical.
1972 All colors
from black to pure white are allowed. A
variety of markings on the head is common, including many striking patterns not
found in other breeds.
Comments: “One of the great delights of Siberians
is their variability of color as well as markings and eye color--everything
from all black to all white being permissible and desirable. Usually symmetry is more aesthetically
pleasing than asymmetry, but even the so-called piebalds or pintos (though
apparently not desirable to the Chukchi or many of the early breeders) are
acceptable and occasionally even exquisite.”
TEMPERAMENT
No section on temperament appears in
any Standard prior to 1972!
1972 The
characteristic temperament of the Siberian Husky is friendly and gentle, but
also alert ad outgoing. He does not
display the possessive qualities of the guard dog nor is he overly suspicious
of strangers or aggressive with other dogs.
Some measure of reserve and dignity may be expected in the mature
dog. His intelligence, tractability,
and eager disposition make him an agreeable companion and willing worker.
Comment: “Temperament is of the utmost
importance in a Siberian Husky. An
aggressive dog is not a team dog, and since the Siberian is a sled dog, any
sign of aggression toward other dogs should be severely penalized. Shyness is equally undesirable, though
somewhat more historically rooted.”
SIZE
1896 There is a
natural range in size, males averaging 23.31 inches at the shoulders, bitches
averaging 21.96 inches at the shoulders.
1930 Dogs 22-23.5
inches at the shoulders, 54-64 pounds; bitches 21-22.5 inches at the shoulders,
44-54 pounds
1938 Emphasis
should be placed on these two points.
Dogs ranging from 21-23.5 inches; bitches 20-22 inches; Dogs ranging
from 50-60 pounds, bitches 40-50 pounds.
1941 Height--Dogs
from 21-23.5 inches at the shoulders; bitches from 20-22 inches. Weight--Dogs from 45-60 pounds; bitches from
35-50 pounds
1963 Height--Dogs from 21-23.5 inches at the
shoulder; bitches 20-22 inches.
Weight--Dogs from 45-60 pounds; bitches from 35-50 pounds.
1972 Height--Dogs from 21-23.5 inches at the
withers; bitches from 20-22 inches at the withers. Weight--Dogs, 45 to 60 pounds; bitches, 35-50
pounds. Weight is in proportion to
height. The measurements mentioned
above represent the extreme height and weight limits with no preference give to
either extreme.
Comments: “Size is as integral a feature of the
Siberian as coat texture or ear set, and just as important to his
functionality. A dog smaller than that
called for by the Standard will lack the necessary strength to be a good sled
dog, while a larger individual will lack speed and endurance. So again, it is the moderate that is
required with absolutely no preference given to either extreme set by the
Standard. But it is the relative body
proportions of dogs within range of the Standard that should be carefully
compared, not the absolute size. It
should be remembered that the great leader, Togo, weighed only 48 pounds and
that current Iditarod dogs tend to weigh about 50 pounds. (Ed.
Note: For further comment re: size re: height to length proportions, one should
refer to Siberian Husky, Able Athlete, Able Friend, page 32.)
SUMMARY
There is no summary section in any
Standard prior to 1941.
1841 The most
important points in a Siberian Husky are medium
size and bone, soft coat, high-set ears, ease of action, and good
disposition. A clumsy, heavy, or
unwieldy appearance or gait should be penalized. In addition to the faults already noted, obvious structural faults
common to all breeds, such as cow hocks for instance, are as undesirable in the
Siberian Husky as in any other breed, even though they are not specifically
mentioned here.
1963 Most important
of the Siberian Husky’s characteristics are medium size and moderate bone, soft
coat, high-set ears, ease and freedom of action, and good disposition. Any gait or general appearance in anyway of
clumsy, heavy, or unwieldy is to be penalized.
In addition to the faults already noted, obvious structural faults
common to all breeds, such as cow hocks, for instance, are as undesirable in
the Siberian Husky as in any other breed, even thought they are not
specifically mentioned here.
1972 The most
important breed characteristics of the Siberian Husky are medium size, moderate
bone, well-balanced proportions, ease and freedom of movement, proper coat,
pleasing head and ears, correct tail, and good disposition. Any appearance of excessive bone, weight,
constricted or clumsy gait, or long rough coat should be penalized. The Siberian Husky never appears so heavy or
coarse as to suggest a freighting animal nor is he light and fragile as to
suggest a sprint-racing animal. In both
sexes, the Siberian Husky gives the appearance of being capable of great
endurance. In addition to the faults
already noted, obvious structural faults common to all breeds are as
undesirable in the Siberian Husky as in any other bred, even though they are
not specifically mentioned herein.
Comments: “While I believe this summary is really
a perfect summation of the breed in the context of a Standard, I’d like to
broaden the perspective slightly and suggest that first and foremost the
Siberian is a distance galloper and needs longer leg than depth of chest, only
slightly more length of body than height, a short loin, long, sloping croup and
shoulders. In short, there is nothing
husky about a Husky (which is merely a corruption of the word “esky” for
Eskimo). His is more a wiry endurance
strength than a heavily muscled one. He
exhibits the nimble quickness of a shortstop or tennis player, not the brute
strength of the football player. So
even though a very full coat may give him a rich plushness in appearance, he is
a lean hard dog underneath--a Bruce Jenner, for instance, or a Martina
Navratilova, certainly not a John Elway or a Barry Saunders, but maybe a Deion
Sanders.”
DISQUALIFICATIONS
No disqualifications prior to 1941
1941
Weight over 60 pounds in a male or over 50 pounds in a
female (anything over these weights indicates cross-breeding). Height and weight are very important, and the upper limit in each
1942
must be rigidly maintained.
1963 Height over 23.5 inches in dogs; over
22 inches in bitches.
1972 Dogs over 23.5 inches and bitches over
22 inches.
Written by and permission given by Bobbie Palmer with help from The International SHC and "The Siberian, Able Athlete, Able Friend," by Michael Jennings. (Photos removed from original article.)