Keeping Your Siberian Husky Cool --Brenda Hinkemeyer

Yeah, sunglasses and a leather jacket would do the trick. But, in all seriousness, this article is about helping your Siberian Husky deal with the heat and sun: An appropriate topic with summer just around the corner. So why am I writing this article? Well, I know what to do, even though I don't always practice what I preach (to which anyone who has seen my red dogs' coats can attest). As you may or may not know, I am a native Minnesotan; however, I lived in Phoenix, Arizona, for four years. Ironically, this is where I got my start with Siberian Huskies. It is CRITICAL in a warm climate, like the Arizona desert, to keep your Siberian cool. My original three dogs had to survive record-breaking 122 degree temperatures in July, when even the airport was closed. While Minnesota summers are cold in comparison, Siberians can still suffer and must stay cool. Note that at the beginning I mentioned heat and sun, not temperature and sun. Heat is the combination of the temperature and humidity. What Minnesota summers lack in temperature, they make up for in humidity (although it DOES get humid in Arizona in late July and August, contrary to popular belief, we're still only talking about 60% at the upper extreme).


The best piece of advice is to just use common sense.
If you are uncomfortable outside, your dog 
 is probably very uncomfortable.  The primary reason,
of course, is that lovely Siberian coat. 
Want to empathize?  Just bundle up in your warmest
winter clothing sometime in the middle of 
summer and see how you feel!  As you probably already
know, dogs do not perspire.  They cool 
themselves by panting - losing their excess body
heat from their mouths.  Think about the size of 
the area absorbing heat vs. the size of the area
dispersing the heat, and you can begin to see what
a tough job it is!  I cannot emphasize enough how
important it is to properly cool your dog.  
In addition to skin problems, such as "hot spots",
your dog could get sunstroke and be permanently 
brain damaged or die.

The most critical key to keeping
your dog cool is the availability
of fresh, clean water at all times.  This cannot
be emphasized enough.  It must be fresh water. 
The buckets should be emptied and cleaned nightly.
This can sometimes be difficult depending 
on your water supply (I have well water, so algae
can be a problem in the summer), but stainless 
steel water buckets help this a great deal.  It can
also be a challenge if your Siberians take turns 
cooling their feet in the water bucket.  This means
they now have fresh, muddy water to drink. 
I would suggest providing a small wading pool with
a couple of inches of water available to the dogs. 
Most Siberians love to play in water.  Raising the
bucket off the ground slightly and clipping it to the 
fence so that it cannot be spilled or tipped will
also help.  Of course, if you can do it, I think the 
ideal solution would be self-waterers, similar to
those used for livestock! (I personally think they 
would find some way to make it stay on permanently
and overflow all over, though.) And when you 
are hosing your kennels out, give the dogs a spray
or two.  They'll enjoy it!  

The next key to cooling your Siberian is shade. 
I did not list it equally with the first, because, quite 
frankly, you cannot FORCE your Siberian to lay in
the shade.  This has been my particular problem. 
If your dog is uncomfortable, he will seek shade.
So have lots of it available. There are numerous 
ways to provide shade.  I think the best solution
is trees all around the kennels.  This is not easy to 
implement once the dogs are in place.  Siberians
like to eat trees.  So many of us have to rely on tarps 
or sunscreens.  Covering the entire south wall as
well as the first few feet of the kennel is ideal. 
Of course, you need to customize this to your particular
yard and its periods of sun.  My kennel area 
has nothing around it for miles (OK, slight exaggeration),
so there is ALWAYS a period during the 
day when there is little or no shade.  I try to shade
so that this time is early morning or evening, when 
the sun is the least intense.  Start shading your
dogs as soon as the threat of heavy snow (which would 
ruin your tarps) is gone and the sun is higher in
the sky.  You should probably shade from late 
March to October, if possible.  Make sure that you
poke holes in tarps (or any solid fabric), so that the 
rain doesn't weigh down and ruin them.  Believe me,
if the tarps dip low enough and the dog houses 
are high enough, you will have Siberians running
around on tarps and jumping out of the kennels!

The surface that your dog lays on during the day
can also playa part in his comfort. Asphalt is out for many reasons
besides heat conduction. Concrete can also become warm. While
it is not as uncomfortable to the touch as asphalt, for example,
it reflects a lot of heat and will make your dog hotter. Your
dog should have a dog house or wooden pallet to lay on to keep him
off the concrete surface. The dogs are most comfortable with grass
or dirt to lay on. And I say dirt, because that's what the
yard will look like after they lay on it for awhile. My dogs
have their own little molded wells to lie in - they've dug into
the ground about 4 inches in a circular area that is
roughly the shape of their body curled up. They each have
one... or two... or three. [Actually, it's probably closer
to one for every day of the week.]

When I lived in Arizona, my dogs used to sit IN the tree in the
middle of the kennel. Let me explain.  There was a large Palo Verde
tree around which I built my kennels. A Palo Verde tree is light green,
and starts branching about a foot off the ground. It has teeny, tiny leaves
on very sharp, pointy branches. While it's shading ability
is not even close to a large oak, for example, the temperature
will drop about 20 degrees around it. This helps
- a lot!  Anyway, they are also very cool to the touch. So
the dogs would lay on the lower branches of the tree in the
worst heat of the day.

And, of course, the dogs themselves help keep cool
in the summertime, by shedding all of their undercoat.
I'm sure everyone is familiar with this activity! You need
to assist your dog with this process by combing the
hair out as soon as it comes loose. This not only helps your
dog cool off sooner, it also helps him have a healthier, prettier
coat because the dead, ugly stuff is gone and the combing
action stimulates their new coat. If you leave the hair
to fall out "naturally", it may never completely
come out. It can also lead to "hot spots" - Acute Moist
Dermatitis - which is a festering "wound" under the dead hair.
There are many other causes for these, but heavily coated breeds
like the Siberian Husky encounter this problem more often
in hot/humid weather. It is thought to have something
to do with lack of ventilation in the coat. Hot spots take
a long time to cure once they set in, so brush that hair
out!

I should note that the coats we get on our dogs here
are MUCH denser that the coats they had in Arizona. The
dogs seem to adjust to the different climates that way.
This is how the Siberian Husky thrives wherever he lives.
If you thought you had a problem getting a good coat here,
though, try it in one of these hotter places. It can be a
real challenge, because they don't get their coat in until
October/November and it starts to fall out already
in March! I should also mention that coat color doesn't
seem to have as much affect on the dogs. While the
black coats are warmer to the touch, the dogs with black
coats do not seem to be any more uncomfortable than the
other dogs. The biggest problems with coat color have to
do with the sun and it's effects on the coat. This is
where the importance of shade comes in. The red coats are
very  prone to sunburn. The black coats would come in a
distant second. The grays, an even more distant third.

NEVER, NEVER, EVER leave your dog locked in a
closed vehicle. The temperature in a car will build up quickly,
especially on a sunny day. Your dog could be dead
in less than 10 minutes! If you must leave your dog
in your vehicle (such as at a dog show or similar type
of event), make sure that there are open windows, doors,
or tailgate - anything to get air flowing through. Try
to park in the shade, and even take the kennels out
of the vehicle and put them in the shade. You can put up
tarps, but do not block the breeze. Leave the vehicle running
with the air conditioning on high if necessary. If
it is not essential to have your dog along, and you will
be stopping and entering places where your dog is not
welcome, do your dog a favor and leave him home! He will miss
you while you are gone, but at least he will be alive
to greet you when you return.

In summary, the best guideline I can give you to
help keep your Siberian cool would be to follow the same things
you would do for yourself. When people are hot, we remove
clothing (get rid of "coat"), go swimming,
and seek shade.  Of course, some of us retreat to air conditioning.
This can work for the dogs too, but you need to be careful:
if your dog gets used to the air conditioning one day,
but is stuck out in the kennel the next day, he will suffer
more than if he is used to being out in the kennel
all day (same policy holds for winter and heating). If
you are going to bring your dogs into the air conditioning,
do it consistently, or not at all. Most Siberians survive
the summer heat outside just fine - with a little
help from their owners!







The 2003 SHCTC Specialty Show (May 9, 2003, Medina, MN) was dedicated to Mrs. Ruth Foster of Minneapolis. The essay below explains why.

IN HONOR OF RUTH FOSTER --Gail Peterson

 

Ruth Foster has a way with dogs.  She also has a way with people, and this combination of traits has brought her the affection, admiration, and respect of dog enthusiasts throughout Minnesota and around the country.  At one point in her long relationship with dogs, Ruth owned a Siberian and was one of the earliest members of our club.  Over the years she has served as Obedience Judge at several of our specialty shows, has presented programs to the club, and many of our members have trained under her at Twin Cities Obedience Training Club in Minneapolis.  Several years ago, by unanimous assent, the Siberian Husky Club of the Twin Cities proudly extended honorary lifetime membership to Ruth in recognition of the many contributions she had made to the general welfare of Siberians and all other breeds.  This year, in reaffirmation of that high regard, the SHCTC has dedicated this Specialty Show to her.   We are extremely pleased that Ruth has graciously accepted this tribute and has been able to join us today.

 

Ruth Foster has dedicated her life to making the world a better place for dogs and their owners.  An expert in virtually all facets of the hobby, Ruth’s forte is dog behavior.  No one can get a dog (any dog) to behave the way Ruth Foster can.  She has The Touch.  Ruth can take the leash of an unruly dog and, with little more than a few soft murmurs, judicious looks, and gentle tugs, convert it into a calm and well-mannered companion.  She has long been the guiding light in the Twin Cities dog community’s move toward widespread use of positive training methods.  For example, she has been the major influence in the philosophy, policies, and procedures of the Twin Cities Obedience Training Club since its inception, served TCOTC as the Director of Training, and still offers special classes there.   She is an AKC obedience judge and a past President of the National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors.  Ruth has also played prominent roles in the Minnesota Purebred Dog Breeders Association and the American Dog Owners Association.  Her exemplary conduct and positive influence earned her formal distinction as “One Who Cares” by KARE-TV (Channel 11), a prestigious local good-citizen recognition award. 

 

Ruth has worked tirelessly for nearly three decades as a community partner with the University of Minnesota Center for the Study of Human-Animal Relationships & Environments (CENSHARE), where she serves as a central member of the Executive Committee.  As a volunteer for CENSHARE, she has worked with the Companion Animal Humane Society of Ramsey and St. Croix Counties to improve the behavior of shelter dogs in order to make them more attractive and suitable members of their new adoptive families.  Ruth has served as a teacher and judge in the 4-H dog program and, through CENSHARE, is currently working with other volunteers on a comprehensive 4-H program to encourage gentler, kinder dog training methods.  She has received awards from the Minneapolis Public Schools for her work in the classroom teaching gentle handling and nurturing of dogs.   Again through her work with CENSHARE, Ruth was one of the founders of Helping Paws, Inc., a local nonprofit organization which trains service dogs to help people with disabilities.  She also helped produce a series of educational videos on the proper care and use of dogs as companions to the residents of nursing homes and long term care facilities.  Ruth is also the co-inventor, with Dr. R.K. Anderson, of the Gentle Leader®, a simple but revolutionarily innovative headcollar for dogs which is becoming more and more popular with each passing day because of the ease of control it gives the person and the comforting assurance it gives the dog.   Ruth displayed the Gentle Leader® recently at an exhibit at the St. Paul Science Museum honoring women inventors.  Her invention was also featured recently in an exclusive exhibit of important American inventions at the Smithsonean’s National Museum of American History in Washington, DC.  In keeping with her characteristic generosity, Ruth has donated the great bulk of the royalties from sales of the Gentle Leader® (which number well over a million units in the USA alone, plus hundreds of thousands more around the world) to the U of M to support CENSHARE’s pioneering work in the burgeoning new field of the human-animal bond.

 

As devoted as she has been to dogs, Ruth has been even more devoted to her husband Bob and their four children.  Fortunately, Bob loves dogs every bit as much as Ruth does, has been totally supportive of her many activities with dogs and dog clubs throughout her career, and has become a well recognized figure at dog shows in his own right.  To the delight of many SHCTC members, Ruth and Bob’s 49th wedding anniversary coincided with the banquet for the National Siberian Husky Specialty we hosted in the autumn of 1997, and we were thrilled to have them as our guests that evening and honored to celebrate their anniversary with them.  This autumn, of course, they will celebrate 55 years of marriage.

 

Much more could be written about Ruth Foster, and it would all be as wholesome and positive and uplifting as that above.  Ruth is basically a very modest person, and not at all one to boast of her accomplishments, but there are more achievements and awards than have been mentioned here.  Suffice it to say that the SHCTC is extremely proud to have had Ruth Foster as its dear friend for many years, and we are so pleased to have been able to dedicate this Specialty Show to her as a small gesture of our most sincere appreciation.

 

Let’s Talk About

the STANDARD! - Compiled by Bobbie Palmer

 

WHY do we have a Standard?  Why do we even Need a Standard?  Who cares about what some people wrote hundreds of years ago?  This is now, and the dogs we breed and see are the Siberians of the 21st Century.   Are these the questions you ask yourself and your friends, sometimes?

 

Well, let’s look at the why’s & wherefore’s and decide what we are trying to preserve.  What we are trying to produce and protect and what we’re talking about.  Think about this tho….  WHY did you buy a Siberian Husky?  Was it because its beauty caught your attention?  Or it’s independence?  Or it’s build?  It’s free spirit?   Would you want to REALLY change all these attributes?  The following is taken from “International Siberian Husky Club, Inc., Presents THE SIBERIAN HUSKY,” 2nd Edition published in 1977, and I believe now out of print, with additional comments from Michael Jenning’s book “Siberian Husky, Able Athlete, Able Friend,” published in 1999.  The ISHC piece was prepared by John Tanner.

 

THE SIBERIAN HUSKY STANDARD

KEY:

1896—Shirinsky-Shihmatoff Study of Yakoot Laika

1930—First Standard of the Breed

1938—First Standard produced by the Siberian Husky Club of America & accepted by AKC

1941—Revision by SHCA & accepted by AKC

1963—Revision by SHCA and approved by AKC

1972—Revision by SHCA and approved by AKC

1990—Reformatting by AKC accepted by SHCA

 

GENERAL APPEARANCE

1896     A medium-sized draught animal with a well-muscled body, having a slightly long-haired coat, quite soft with a thick down undercoat.  Medium muzzle, ears upright, and tail busy—generally carried in a ring.  The expression in his moderately cross-cut eyes is indicative of “...his devotion to man who he serves faithfully and disinterestedly.”

1930     For hundreds of years the Siberian Husky has been used as a sled dog in northeastern Asia.  He should be exceptionally active, quick, and light on his feet, able to run in harness with a load at a speed of 20 miles an hour for short distances.  He should be strong, courageous, and tireless on the rail.  He should have a deep strong chest, heavy bone, strong legs and feet, straight powerful back, and well-muscled hindquarters.  A grown dog should stand about 23 inches at the shoulders and weight about 60 pounds.  A bitch should be smaller and weigh about 10-12 pounds less.

1938     The Siberian Husky is an alert, gracefully built, medium-sized dog with a strong, compact body, not too short-coupled with a powerful back of medium length, quick and light on his feet, deep shot chest, medium bone, well-muscled hindquarters, thick soft undercoat, and a not too long outer coat lying close to this body.  There is a fox-like appearance to the head, and a brush tail is carried curled over the back when working or interested and trailing in repose.   Bitches are smaller in size and weight than male dogs averaging two inches less in height and 10 pounds less in weight.

1941          The Siberian Husky is an alert, gracefully built, medium-sized dog, quick and light on his feet, and

free and graceful in action.   He has a strong, moderately compact body, a deep strong chest, well-muscled shoulders and hindquarters, and straight strong legs of medium bone.   His coat is dense and very soft, and his brush tail is carried curved over his back when at attention and trailing when in repose.  His head presents a finely chiseled and often fox-like expression.  His characteristic gait is tireless and almost effortless when free or on a loose lead but showing great strength when pulling.  The trot is brisk and smooth and quite fast.  Bitches are smaller than dogs, averaging up to two inches shorter and 10 pounds less in weight.  Siberians range in build from moderately compact (but never cobby) to moderately rangy.  In all builds the bone must be medium, the back powerful (never slack from excessive length) and the shoulder height never exceeding 23.5 inches (any ranginess is merely a matter of proportion, not of actual height).

1963     The Siberian Husky is a medium-sized working dog of powerful but graceful build.  His moderately compact and well-furred body, erect ears, and brush tail curved over the back suggest the northern heritage of the capable sled dog.  His characteristic gait is free and effortless but unbelievably strong when called upon to pull.  And the keen and friendly expression of his slightly oblique eyes indicates the amenable disposition of the good companion.

1972     The Siberian Husky is a medium-sized working dog, quick and light on his feet and free and graceful action.  His moderately compact and well-furred body, erect ears, and brush tail suggest his northern heritage.  His characteristic gait is smooth and seemingly effortless.  He performs his original function in harness most capably, carrying a light load at a moderate speed over great distances.  His body proportions and form reflect the basic balance of power, speed, and endurance.  The males of the Siberian Husky breed are masculine but never coarse; the bitches are feminine but without weakness of structure.  In proper condition, with muscle firm and developed, the Siberian Husky does not carry excessive weight.

1990     The Siberian Husky is a medium-sized working dog, quick and light on his feet and graceful in action.  His moderately compact and well-furred body, erect ears, and brush tail suggest his northern heritage.  His characteristic gait is smooth and seemingly effortless.  He performs his original function in harness most capably, carrying a light load at a moderate speed over a great distance.  His body proportions and form reflect this basic power, speed, and endurance.  The males of the Siberian Husky breed are masculine but ever coarse; the bitches are feminine but without weakness of structure.  In proper condition, with muscle firm and well-muscled, the Siberian Husky does not carry excessive weight.

 

Comment: (by author, M. Jennings)  “The Siberian is quite simply, a dog invented to fill a very specific need, an extremely frugal animal bred for a harsh environment so underlying this simple description is a prescription for moderation that would please even the staunchest Aristotelian.  In the space of several sentences.  We find that the Siberian is “medium-sized,” “moderately compact,” reflects a “balance of power, speed, and endurance” that males are “masculine but not coarse” and bitches “feminine without weakness of structure,” that they should both be “dry,” carrying no excess weight, nor fleshy or loose.  We find also, the reason for this prescription: that the original function of the Siberian was to carry a “light load at a moderate speed over great distances.” This is a tremendously important phrase in coming to an understanding of the conformation of the Siberian.  For although he has gained much recognition for his accomplishments, in the area of Arctic and Antarctic exploration, as well as in the field of sled dog racing, he was intended neither as a heavy draft animal nor as a sprinter.  He was bred to pull light loads often as much as 100 miles in a single day, a job that required a dog that was “quick and light on his feet and graceful in action.”  Anything clumsy or heavy in movement would be unable to maintain the pace required of these dogs; anything too refined would lack the necessary pulling power and stamina.”

 

(Editor’s note:  From here we take the current Standard into the 1990 reformatting style that the AKC developed for all breeds, and comments or comparisons might be a little askew and not in the same order..  AND DUE TO THE ALMOST ENTIRELY EXACT WORDING AS THE ‘72 STANDARD, WE WILL NOT REPRINT ’90.)

 

 

 

HEAD

1896     Skull--Of medium size, the brow is seen to be broad and triangular in form when viewed from above.  The temples and jaws are moderately broad and the muzzle moderately short in comparison with the head, while the breadth of the temples make the muzzle appear sharp.  Skull and muzzle are delicately formed; the teeth sharp and fine.

Ears--Upright, highly set, and moderately rounded.  When excited, they are pricked but incline slightly toward the muzzle.

Eyes--Set moderately cross-cut, medium-sized and always brown.  (Ed. emphasis!)

Nose--The nose is invariably black.

1930     The size of the head should be in proportion to the body but not too clumsy or too large.  It should be of medium width between the ears.  The ears should be erect, set high on the head, medium in size, pointed at the tops, and well covered with fur on the insides.  It should be of medium length and slightly wedged shaped.  The jaws and teeth are very strong and should never be overshot or undershot.  The eye may be either blue or brown with a keen and friendly expression.  Eye rims dark.  The nose may be light brown or black.  The muzzle should be strong, the lips dark and firmly fitting together.

1938     Head--Medium-sized in proportion to the body, width between the ears medium to narrow, gradually narrowing to eyes and moderately rounded.

Muzzle--Medium length, lips dark and closely fitting, jaws and teeth strong, meeting in a scissors bite.  (Editor’s emphasis)

Nose--Light brown or black in white Siberians; a red nose is allowed.

Eyes--Should be only slightly obliquely set in skull, either brown or blue in color, with a keen, friendly, fox-like expression.  White eyes are permissible and are not a sign of impure breeding.  Eye rims should be dark.

Ears--Erect, set high on the head, close fitting, small or medium in size, moderately rounded, and well covered with hair on the inside.  There is the appearance of an arch behind the ears.

1941     Skull--Of medium size in proportion to the body; width between the ears medium to narrow,  gradually tapering to eyes, and moderately rounded.  Muzzle of medium length, both the skull and muzzle are finely chiseled.  Lips dark and close fitting; jaws and teeth strong, meeting with a scissors bite.  Faults--Head clumsy or heavy, muzzle bulky (like the Alaskan Malamute), skull too wide between the ears, snipey, coarse.

Ears--Of medium size, erect, closely fitting, set high on the head, and well arched with hair on the inside.  There is an arch on the back of the ears.  Ears are slightly taller than the width of the base and moderately rounded at the tips.  When the dog is at attention, ears are usually carried practically parallel on top of the head with the inner edges quite close together at the base.  Faults--Low-set ears, ears, too large, “flat ears,” lop ears.

Eyes--Either brown or blue (“watch” or “china”) in color, one blue and one brown eye permissible but not desirable.  Set obliquely on skull.  Eyes have a keen, friendly expression, and the expression is distinctly “interested,” sometimes even mischievous.

Nose--Black for preference, with brown allowed in specimens of reddish-colored coat, and flesh- colored nose and eye rims in white dogs.  Some dogs, especially black and white, have what is often termed a “snow nose” or smudge nose, i.e., a nose normally solid black but acquiring a pink streak in winter.  This is permissible but not desirable.

1963     Skull--Of medium size, in proportion to the body; a trifle rounded on the top and tapering gradually to the eyes, the width between the ears is medium to narrow.  Muzzle medium long; that is, the distance from nose to stop is about equal to the distance from stop to occiput.  Skull and muzzle are finely chiseled.  Lips dark are close fitting, the jaws strong, and the teeth meeting in a scissors bite.  Faults--Head too heavy, skull to side, muzzle either bulky, snipey, or coarse.

Ears--Medium in size, set high and carried erect.  When at attention, they are practically parallel to each other.  They are moderately rounded at the tips and well-furred on the inner side.  Faults--Too large, too low set, and not strongly erect.

Eyes--Set a trifle obliquely, their expression is keen but friendly, interested, and even mischievous.  Color may be either brown or blue; one brown eye and one blue eye being permissible but not desirable.  Faults--Eyes too obliquely set.

Nose--Preferably black with brown allowed in specimens of reddish coat and flesh-colored nose and eye rims allowed in white dogs.  The nose that is temporarily pink-streaked in winter is permissible but not desirable.

1972     Skull--Of medium size and in proportion to the body, slightly rounded on top and tapering gradually from the widest point to the eyes.  Faults--Head clumsy or heavy; head too finely chiseled.

Muzzle--Of medium length; that is, the distance from the tip of the nose to the stop is equal to the distance from the stop to the occiput.  The stop is well-defined, and the bridge of the nose is straight from the stop to the tip.  The muzzle is of medium width, tapering gradually to the nose, with the tip neither pointed nor square.  The lips are well-pigmented and lose fitting; teeth closing in a scissors bite.  Faults– Muzzle either too snipey or too coarse; muzzle too short or too long. insufficient stop, any bite other than scissors.

Ears--Of medium size, triangular in shape, close fitting, and set high on the head.  They are thick, well-furred, slightly rounded tips pointing straight up.  Faults--Ears too large in proportion to the head, too wide set, not strongly erect.

Eyes--Almond-shaped, moderately spaced, and set a rifle obliquely.  The expression is keen, but friendly, interested, and even mischievous.  Eyes may be brown, or blue color; one of each or parti-colored eyes are acceptable.  Faults--Eyes set too obliquely, set too close together.

Nose--Black in gray, tan, or black dogs, liver in copper dogs; may be flesh-colored in pure white dogs.  The pink-streaked “snow nose” is acceptable.

 

COMMENT:  “Along with coat type, and general size and proportion of the body, the head is the primary indictor of type in a breed, and thus is an important factor in the assessment of any purebred dog.  It has been argued that heads are basically a matter of aesthetic whim and have little to do with the actual functioning capability of a breed.  This is, of course, not altogether true.

   “A Siberian, for instance, would be hard-pressed to survive in an Arctic climate with anything but a well-furred ear, and an argument could probably be made that the smaller ear, as compared to that of the German Shepherd, would be less vulnerable to cold.  The erect ear is also more generally efficient than the hanging ear and less prone to infection.  It has further been hypothesized by Richard and Alice Fennes in their book, “The Natural History of Dogs,” that the well-defined stop called for in the Siberian Husky Standard allows for the maximum development of the frontal sinuses, which trap exhaled warmed air, thereby forming a warm cushion over the delicate tissues of the eyes and forebrain and also helping warm the cold inhaled air as it passes along the nasal passages.  Veteran drivers like Roland Lombard have argued that a muzzle shorter than required by the Standard fails to warm the air sufficiently before entering the sinuses.

   The requirement for close-fitting lips addresses a survival need in sub-zero temperatures, and one feature noted by the earliest fanciers was the dogs’ ability to work with their mouths closed, thereby avoiding frost bitten lungs.  The scissors bite is the most efficient for tearing food with minimum wear.  The medium-sized head, like the medium length of neck called for in a later section of the Standard, is optimal for endurance, the head and neck performing a vital function in the maintenance of balance and the movement of the front assembly.  Since it can probably be further argued that the almond-shaped eye called for in the Standard is the one most easily protected between the frontal bones and zygomatic arch (cheekbones) and found most frequently among wild canids, this leaves only the slightly oblique eye set and very high ear set called for by the Standard in the realm of simple aesthetic purposes.  But since these characteristics were found on the majority of early specimens, and since they are among the characteristics distinguishing the Siberian from his cousins, the Alaskan Malamute, Samoyed, and the no longer recognized Eskimo, requiring their maintenance seems eminently justifiable..”

   “Another issue raised by the Standard Review Committee is whether a more blanket endorsement of various eye colors wouldn’t be more helpful, such as “eye color immaterial,” thus more clearly endorsing the various amber and gold shades consistent with red dogs and their sometimes even greenish shades created by certain parti-colored mixtures in eyes.”

 

BODY 

1896     Neck--The neck is moderately short and well-muscled.

Body--Compact and muscular, the set of the legs broad, the chest low and deep, the back very slightly hollowed, and the ribs a little arched.  Groin slightly drawn in.

1930     Chest and Ribs--Chest should be deep and strong, but not too broad. The ribs should        be well-arched and deep.

Back, Quarters and Stifles--The loin should be slightly arched and especially well-muscled.  The stifle should be well let down and very muscular.  The back should be straight, not too long, and strongly developed.

1938     Chest, Ribs and Shoulders--Chest should be deep and strong, but not too broad, ribs well-arched and deep, shoulders strong and powerful.

Back and Loins--Back of medium length, not too long, but strongly developed, loins well-muscled, but no surplus weight, and should be slightly arched.

1941    Chest, Ribs and Shoulders--Chest should be deep and strong but not too broad, ribs should be well-arched and deep.  Shoulders well-developed and powerful.  Faults--Chest too broad (like the Alaskan Malamute) weak or flat chest, weak shoulders.

Back, Loin and Quarters--Back of medium length, but too long or cobby (like the Elkhound) and strongly developed.  Loin well-muscled and slightly arched and should carry no excess weight or fat.  Hindquarters powerful and shows good angulation.  Faults--Weak or slack back and any weakness in hindquarters.

1963     Neck--Strong, ached, and fairly short.

Body--Moderately compact but not cobby.  Chest, deep and strong but too broad, the ribs well sprung and deep.  Shoulders powerful and well laid back.  Back of medium length and strong, the topline level.  Loins taut, lean, and very slightly arched.  Body Faults--Weak or slack back, roachback

1972     Neck--Medium length, arched, and carried proudly erect when dog is standing.  When moving at a trot, the neck is extended so that the head is carried slightly forward.  Faults--Neck too short and thick, neck too long.

Shoulders--The shoulder blade is well laid back at an approximate angle of 45 degrees to the ground.  The upper arm angles slightly backward from the point of shoulder to elbow, and is never perpendicular to the ground.  The muscles and ligaments holding the shoulder to the rib cage are firm and well-developed.  Faults--Straight shoulders, loose shoulders.

Chest--Deep and strong, but not too broad, with the deepest point being just behind and level with the elbows.  The ribs are well sprung from the spine but flattened to the sides to allow for freedom of action.  Faults--Chest too broad, “barrel ribs,” ribs too flat or weak

Back--The back is straight and strong with a level topline from withers to croup.  It is of medium length, neither cobby nor slack from excessive length.  The loin is taut and lean, narrower than the rib cage and with a slight tuck-up.  The croup slopes away from the spine at an angle, but never so steeply as to restrict the rearward thrust of the hid legs.  In profile, the length of the body from the point of the shoulder to the rear point of the croup is slightly longer than the height of the body from the ground to the top of the withers.  Faults--Weak or slack back, roached back, sloping topline.

 

COMMENTS:  The neck is primarily what keeps the dog from falling on its face as the rear drives it forward.  Muscles attached just below the base of the skull lift the forelimbs and propel them forward and back.  The strength of these muscles is evident in the arched neck when the dog is alert and standing.  But as they come into play in the moving dog, it becomes necessary for the head and neck to extend forward for maximum effectiveness.  In the Siberian, we ask that the neck be medium in length simply because, like the medium skull, bones, etc., this is the most effective size where both speed and stamina are desirable.

“The chest houses heart and lungs and so should be of sufficient depth to provide ample room.  But in a breed designed for maximum suppleness at a lope, the chest cannot be too wide and must be flattened on the sides.  Otherwise, it will impede the free movement of the front legs.  So, too, with depth of chest.  According to Dr. Roland Lombard, there has probably never been an effective sled dog with a chest deeper than its elbows.  In fact, in the well-built Siberian, it is probably only the hair on the chest that brings it to the level of the elbows, the chest itself being just higher and out of the way.  Although the Standard asks for a “level topline,” what is meant is the appearance of a level topline since, in fact the spine dips downward from the withers above the shoulders before rising into the arch of the spine that creates the “tuck-up” in the loin.  That arch is the main point of energy transference from the rear to the front, and in the effective galloper those muscles will be extremely powerful.”

 

LEGS AND FEET

1896     Legs--The legs are straight, thin, and light.  The knee of the hind leg is slightly bent forward.  The thigh is moderately short.

Feet—The paw is raw and spatulate, the footprint differing little from that of the wolf.  In thoroughbred Laikas, there is no fifth toe.  When it is met with, it is the result of cross breeding.

1930     Legs--Straight and of good length, well-muscled, and good bone.

Feet--Strong, not too compact, with exceptionally tough pads protected with hair.

1938     Legs--Straight, well-muscled, and good bone, but not too heavy.  Dew claws sometimes appear on the hind legs and although not a fault, they are better removed especially as they interfere with the dog’s work.

Feet--Oblong in shape and not too broad as the Eskimo dog or the Alaskan Malamute; well-furred between the pads which are tough and thickly cushioned.

1941      Legs--Straight and well-muscled, with good bone (but never heavy bone like the Alaskan Malamute or Eskimo dog), stifles well bent.  Dew claws occasionally appear on the hind legs They are not of impure breeding, but as they do interfere with the dog’s work, they should be removed, preferably at birth.  Faults--Heavy bone, too light bone, lack of proper angulation in hind legs.

Feet--Oblong in shape, not so broad as Eskimo dog’s or Alaskan Malamute’s, well-furred between the pads, which are tough and thickly cushioned, compact, neither too large (like the Alaskan Malamute) nor too small (like the Samoyed).  The Siberian foot, like that of other true Arctic dogs, is a ”snowshoe” foot, i.e., it is somewhat webbed between the toes like a retriever’s foot.  Good feet are very important and therefore feet should always be examined in the ring.  Faults--Soft or splayed feet, feet too large, or clumsy, feet too small or delicate.

1963     Legs--The legs are straight and well-muscled with bone substantial but not heavy.  Hindquarters powerful with good angulation, well bent stifles.  Dew claws on the rear legs, if any, are to be removed.

Feet--Oval in shape, medium in size; compact and well-furred between the toes.  Pads tough and deeply cushioned.  In short a typical snowshoe foot, somewhat webbed between the toes.  Faults--Bone too light or too heavy, insufficient bend in stifles, weak pasterns, feet soft and/or splayed.

1972     Forelegs--When standing and viewed from the front, the legs are moderately spaced parallel and straight, with elbows close to the body and turned neither in nor out.  Viewed from the side pasterns are slightly slanted, with the pastern joint strong, but flexible.  Bone of the leg from elbow to ground is slightly more than the distance from the elbows to the top of the withers.  Dew claws on the forelegs may be removed.  Faults--Weak pasterns, too heavy bone, too narrow or too wide in the front, out at the elbows.

Hindquarters--When standing and viewed from the rear, the hindquarters are moderately spaced and parallel.  The upper thighs are well-muscled and powerful, the stifles well-bent, the hock joint well-defined and set low to the ground.  Dew claws, if any, are to be removed.  Faults--Straight stifles, cow hocks, too narrow or too wide in the rear.

Feet--Oval in shape, but not too long.  The paws are medium in size, compact, and well-furred between the toes and pads.  The pads are tough and thickly cushioned.  The paws neither turn in or out when dog is in natural stance.  Faults--Soft or splayed toes, paws too large and clumsy, paws too small and delicate, toeing in or out.

1990     Forequarters--Shoulders--The shoulder blade is well laid back.  The upper arm angles slightly backward from point of shoulder to elbow and is never perpendicular to the ground.  The muscles and ligaments holding the shoulder to the rib cage are firm and well developed.  Faults--Straight shoulders, loose shoulders

Forelegs--(see ‘72)

 

Comment:  “Forequarters: In asking for a well laid back shoulder, I take the Standard to mean a shoulder blade that is angled approximately 30-40 degrees from the perpendicular, with 35 degrees being perhaps ideal.  This, at least, is what studies of the racing sled dog have indicated.  Though the benefits of extreme shoulder layback have long been touted by show ring “reach and drive” enthusiasts, Curtis Brown, in his book “Dog Locomotion and Gait Analysis,” is probably right when he suggests that extreme shoulder layback is probably only highly desirable in dogs meant to dig.  This optimal angle of 35 degrees then is established when the heel pad is set directly under the center of the shoulder blade and not when feet are any further forward, as is sometimes the case in the show ring when the front is “dropped” into position by the handler.  This is why it is also asked that the upper arm angle backward to the elbow and not be perpendicular to the ground, since a straight-shouldered dog can be made to give the appearance of having more shoulder layback by bringing the front legs forward, thus rotting the shoulder blade backward.  It is also true that contemporary show Siberians tend to have a shorter, straighter upper arm than is generally considered desirable.

   “But it is the muscles, tendons, and ligaments and how they function, that are of paramount importance.  Unfortunately, although it is implied, little is said about the lay-on or wraparound of the front assembly, which is absolutely critical to a good front.  But a front assembly is only as good as it functions, and while it is while gaiting that a shoulder can be best appraised, according to its fluency, rotation of the blade (about 15 degrees according to Dr. Lombard), shock absorbency, and smoothness of topline.  To feel good shoulders, allow good muscling--the larger the blade, the larger area for muscle adherence.  And the smoother the blend of neck into topline, whether standing or gaiting, the better.”

   “Hindquarters--The description of hindquarters is again in the interest of speed and endurance.  The highest-hocked animals, like rabbits, run faster but tire quickly.  Short pasterns mean endurance.  But thought the Standard calls for a low hock joint, it is worth noting that Doc Lombard warns against a rear pastern that is too short, a hock joint that is too low, because too much speed is lost.  In fact, a recent, fairly small sampling of measurements of working Siberians showed the length of the rear pasterns to be about one-third the height of the top of the pelvis in bitches and very slightly longer in males.”

 

TAIL

1896     The tail is long, very bushy, and carried curled on the back, a little sideways, generally tightly twisted around, occasionally sickle-like, and more rarely dropped (wolf-like).

1930     Long, usually carried curled over back but sometimes dropped down, especially when tired.  Should be well protected with fur and hair, but bushy tails not desirable.

1938     A fox-like brush carried over back when working or interested and trailing in repose; described as a “sickle tail with a fox-like brush,” well-furred.

1941     Well-furred brush carried over back in a sickle curve when running or at attention and trailing out behind when working or in repose.  Tail should not snap flat to the back.  Hair on tail is usually medium in length varying somewhat with the length of the dog’s coat

1963     A well-furred brush carried over the back in a sickle curve when the dog runs or stands at attention, and in trailing out behind when working or in repose.  When carried up, the typical tail does not curl to either side of the body nor does it snap flat to the back.  The tail hair is usually of medium length although the length varies somewhat with overall coat length.

1972     The well-furred tail of fox-brush shape is set on just below the level of the topline and is usually carried over the back in a graceful sickle curve when the dog is at attention.  When carried up, the tail does not curl to either side of the body nor does it snap flat against the back.  A tailing tail is normal for the dog when working or in repose.  Hair on the tail is of medium length and approximately the same length on top, sides, and bottom, giving the appearance of a round brush.  Faults--A snapped tail or tightly curled tail, highly plumed tail, tail set too high or too low.

 

Comments: “There are two elements that define the correct Siberian tail--the set and the carriage.  The tail should be set on just below the level of the topline because of the slight fall away of the croup at about 30 to 35 degrees, but the carriage is of equal importance since it indicates much about the muscling of the rear assembly and the back.  A correct tail may be carried in a relaxed sickle curve above the back when the dog is standing at attention or when it is moving, or it may be dropped when the animal is standing and trailing out behind when it is moving.  But it should never touch the back or curl down the loin.  When a Siberian is working, on the other hand, the tail is almost always trailing and may act as a kind of rudder that counterbalances movement to right or left.  It is an interesting historical fact that so many early Siberians had fairly tight tails by current standards despite Leonhard Seppala’s observation that the looser sickle tail worked better.  I suspect that just as Arctic peoples tend to prefer dark dogs so as to instantly distinguish them from indigenous wolves, so, too, with curled tail.  It allowed then to distinguish at a glance whether the animal was lupine or canine.  The request for the even brush shape rather than a heavily plumed tail is simply consistent with the medium-length coat that is requested in the next section.” (Ed.  Note: It is also a known fact that in this Arctic breed the tail must be of sufficient length to cover the nose and face in adverse weather conditions when the dog is sleeping, so as to warm the sinus areas and warming the incoming air.)   

 

GAIT

No section of gait appears in any Standard prior to 1972, which is currently the way the 1990 Standard reads also.

1972

& 1990  The Siberian Husky’s characteristic gait is smooth and seemingly effortless.  He is quick and light on his feet, and when in the show ring, should be gaited on a loose lead at a moderately fast trot, exhibiting good reach in the forequarters and good drive in the hindquarters.  When viewed from the front to rear when walking at a walk, the Siberian Husky does not single track, but as the speed increases, the legs gradually angle inward until the pads are falling in a line directly under the longitudinal center of the body.  As the pad marks converge, the forelegs and hind legs are carried straightforward, with neither elbows or stifles turning in or out.  Each hind leg moves in the path of the foreleg on the same side.  While the dog is gaiting, the topline remains firm and level.  Faults--Short, prancing or choppy gait, lumbering or rolling gait, crossing, crabbing.

 

Comments:  “With the exception of a few stipulations made in the interest of type and refinement, everything in the Standard so far has led up to this demand for “smooth and effortless” movement.  In other words, this is where the phrase “the whole equals the sum of the parts” is particularly relevant, since, basically, the moving dog is the whole dog.  Balance is the key to movement, in other words, and the dog who is slightly under-angulated, but balanced front and rear, will probably move better than, and is thus preferable to, a dog who is extreme in one quarter but not the other.  It should be noted, too, that any forward reach that plants the foot any further forward than directly under the ear or eye is inefficient as it creates negative energy by essentially putting on the brakes every time the foot hits the ground. The request for single tracking and for the rear legs to follow in the line of the front is in the interest of efficiency.  Remember that the Standard asks for a balance of power, speed, and endurance, and that this balance will be reflected in a dog who is “light and quick on his feet” and whose “gait is smooth and seemingly effortless.”

 

COAT

1896     The fur is straight, thick, and long, the hair fine, the down furry, very close and soft.  A mane clearly defined around the neck and falling over the chest.

1930     Should be thick with a very soft and warm under fur next to the skin.  The guard hair should not be too long and should be straight, not too coarse, and fairly close to the body so that the graceful lines of the dog are not obscured.  A busy or shaggy coat is not desirable.

1938     The Siberian has a thick, soft, downy undercoat of fur next to the skin, and an outer coat of guard hairs which are thick, not too long (like that of the Samoyed) of soft texture and lying close to the body.  The appearance is not shaggy but a thick full-furred appearance without the coarseness of a “standoff” coat.

1941     The Siberian Husky has a thick, soft, double coat consisting of a soft, dense, downy undercoat of fur next to the skin and an outer coat of soft smooth texture giving a smooth full-furred appearance and a clear outline (in contrast to the harsh, coarse coat of the Alaskan Malamute or the bear-like Eskimo Dog coat).  The coat is usually medium in length.  Faults--A rough and shaggy appearance (like the Samoyed, Alaskan Malamute or Eskimo Dog), absence of undercoat (except when actually shedding).

1963     Double. The undercoat is dense, soft, and downy, and should be of sufficient length and density to support the outer coat.  The outer coat is very thick, smooth textured and soft, giving a smooth, full-furred appearance, and a clean outline.  It is usually medium in length, a longer coat is allowed so long as the texture is soft and remains the same in any length.  Faults--Harsh texture, or a rough look which obscured the clean-cut outline of the dog, absence of undercoat except while actually shedding.

1972     The coat of the Siberian Husky is double and medium in length, giving a well-furred appearance, but is never so long as to obscure the clean cut outline of the dog.  The undercoat is soft and dense and of sufficient length to support the outer coat.  The guard hairs of the outer coat are straight and somewhat smooth-lying, never harsh nor standing straight off from the body.  It should be noted that the absence of the undercoat during the shedding season is normal.  Trimming of the whiskers and fur between the toes and around the feet to present a neater appearance is permissible.  Trimming of the fur on any other part of the dog is not to be condoned and should be severely penalized.  Faults--Long, rough, shaggy coat, texture too harsh or too silky, trimming of the coat, except as noted above.

 

Comments:  “The coat of the Siberian is unique among Arctic breeds because of its medium length, both the Alaskan Malamute and the Samoyed having somewhat longer, shaggier coats.  The reason for the difference lies primarily in the difference in climates in which these dogs were originally bred… the Siberian the specific conditions of climate and terrain found in his homeland made the formation of ice balls in a long coat an ever-present danger.  Thus consciously or unconsciously, the Chukchi developed a coat their dogs could both withstand the Arctic cold and prevent the formation of ice balls.  Nevertheless there does exist a certain range of coat length probably from about one inch to three inches (varying somewhat on different areas of the body) that is considered typically Siberian so long as the dog’s outline remains unobscured.  The love of profuse coat in the show fancy has led some breeders to produce coats so profuse as to require trimming of the underline to maintain a clean-cut outline.  This is specifically prohibited by the Standard.”

 

COLOR

1896     The predominating hues are: Pure white, black with ashy brown and tips ashy gray, yellowed white, and more rarely dark yellowish gray.  A spotted coat is rarely seen and never in thoroughbred specimens

1930     All colors permissible pure white to black including many grays and mixed wolf colorings.

1938     All colors are permissible from white to black with many variations.

1941     All colors and white are allowed and all markings.  The commonest colors are various shades of wolf and silver grays, tan (a light sable) and black with white points.  A large variety of markings especially head markings are found in the Siberian including many striking and unusual ones not found in any other breed.  Frequently found are the cap-like mask and spectacle markings.

1963     All colors and white, and all markings are allowed.  The various shades of wolf and silver grays, tan, and black with white points are most usual.  A variety of markings, especially on the head, are common to the breed.  These including many striking and unusual patterns not found in any other breeds.  The cap-like mask and spectacles are typical.

1972     All colors from black to pure white are allowed.  A variety of markings on the head is common, including many striking patterns not found in other breeds.

 

Comments:  “One of the great delights of Siberians is their variability of color as well as markings and eye color--everything from all black to all white being permissible and desirable.  Usually symmetry is more aesthetically pleasing than asymmetry, but even the so-called piebalds or pintos (though apparently not desirable to the Chukchi or many of the early breeders) are acceptable and occasionally even exquisite.”

 

TEMPERAMENT

No section on temperament appears in any Standard prior to 1972!

1972     The characteristic temperament of the Siberian Husky is friendly and gentle, but also alert ad outgoing.  He does not display the possessive qualities of the guard dog nor is he overly suspicious of strangers or aggressive with other dogs.  Some measure of reserve and dignity may be expected in the mature dog.  His intelligence, tractability, and eager disposition make him an agreeable companion and willing worker.

 

Comment:  “Temperament is of the utmost importance in a Siberian Husky.  An aggressive dog is not a team dog, and since the Siberian is a sled dog, any sign of aggression toward other dogs should be severely penalized.  Shyness is equally undesirable, though somewhat more historically rooted.”

 

SIZE

1896     There is a natural range in size, males averaging 23.31 inches at the shoulders, bitches averaging 21.96 inches at the shoulders.

1930     Dogs 22-23.5 inches at the shoulders, 54-64 pounds; bitches 21-22.5 inches at the shoulders, 44-54 pounds

1938     Emphasis should be placed on these two points.  Dogs ranging from 21-23.5 inches; bitches 20-22 inches; Dogs ranging from 50-60 pounds, bitches 40-50 pounds.

1941     Height--Dogs from 21-23.5 inches at the shoulders; bitches from 20-22 inches.  Weight--Dogs from 45-60 pounds; bitches from 35-50 pounds

1963     Height--Dogs from 21-23.5 inches at the shoulder; bitches 20-22 inches.  Weight--Dogs from 45-60 pounds; bitches from 35-50 pounds.

1972     Height--Dogs from 21-23.5 inches at the withers; bitches from 20-22 inches at the withers.           Weight--Dogs, 45 to 60 pounds; bitches, 35-50 pounds.  Weight is in proportion to height.  The measurements mentioned above represent the extreme height and weight limits with no preference give to either extreme.

 

Comments:  “Size is as integral a feature of the Siberian as coat texture or ear set, and just as important to his functionality.  A dog smaller than that called for by the Standard will lack the necessary strength to be a good sled dog, while a larger individual will lack speed and endurance.  So again, it is the moderate that is required with absolutely no preference given to either extreme set by the Standard.  But it is the relative body proportions of dogs within range of the Standard that should be carefully compared, not the absolute size.  It should be remembered that the great leader, Togo, weighed only 48 pounds and that current Iditarod dogs tend to weigh about 50 pounds.  (Ed. Note: For further comment re: size re: height to length proportions, one should refer to Siberian Husky, Able Athlete, Able Friend, page 32.)

 

SUMMARY

There is no summary section in any Standard prior to 1941.

1841     The most important points in a Siberian Husky are medium size and bone, soft coat, high-set ears, ease of action, and good disposition.  A clumsy, heavy, or unwieldy appearance or gait should be penalized.  In addition to the faults already noted, obvious structural faults common to all breeds, such as cow hocks for instance, are as undesirable in the Siberian Husky as in any other breed, even though they are not specifically mentioned here.

1963     Most important of the Siberian Husky’s characteristics are medium size and moderate bone, soft coat, high-set ears, ease and freedom of action, and good disposition.  Any gait or general appearance in anyway of clumsy, heavy, or unwieldy is to be penalized.  In addition to the faults already noted, obvious structural faults common to all breeds, such as cow hocks, for instance, are as undesirable in the Siberian Husky as in any other breed, even thought they are not specifically mentioned here.

1972     The most important breed characteristics of the Siberian Husky are medium size, moderate bone, well-balanced proportions, ease and freedom of movement, proper coat, pleasing head and ears, correct tail, and good disposition.  Any appearance of excessive bone, weight, constricted or clumsy gait, or long rough coat should be penalized.  The Siberian Husky never appears so heavy or coarse as to suggest a freighting animal nor is he light and fragile as to suggest a sprint-racing animal.  In both sexes, the Siberian Husky gives the appearance of being capable of great endurance.  In addition to the faults already noted, obvious structural faults common to all breeds are as undesirable in the Siberian Husky as in any other bred, even though they are not specifically mentioned herein.

 

Comments:  “While I believe this summary is really a perfect summation of the breed in the context of a Standard, I’d like to broaden the perspective slightly and suggest that first and foremost the Siberian is a distance galloper and needs longer leg than depth of chest, only slightly more length of body than height, a short loin, long, sloping croup and shoulders.  In short, there is nothing husky about a Husky (which is merely a corruption of the word “esky” for Eskimo).  His is more a wiry endurance strength than a heavily muscled one.  He exhibits the nimble quickness of a shortstop or tennis player, not the brute strength of the football player.  So even though a very full coat may give him a rich plushness in appearance, he is a lean hard dog underneath--a Bruce Jenner, for instance, or a Martina Navratilova, certainly not a John Elway or a Barry Saunders, but maybe a Deion Sanders.”

 

DISQUALIFICATIONS

No disqualifications prior to 1941

1941          Weight over 60 pounds in a male or over 50 pounds in a female (anything over these weights indicates cross-breeding).  Height and weight are very important, and the upper limit in each

1942          must be rigidly maintained.

1963     Height over 23.5 inches in dogs; over 22 inches in bitches.

1972     Dogs over 23.5 inches and bitches over 22 inches.

 

Written by and permission given by Bobbie Palmer with help from The International SHC and "The Siberian, Able Athlete, Able Friend," by Michael Jennings. (Photos removed from original article.)